
L’Île!
L’Île-du-Prince-Édouard a beau être la plus petite province du Canada, son histoire n’en est pas moins considérable, depuis « sa naissance » sous le nom Mi’kmaq de Epikwetk (qui signifie « terre bercée par les vagues »).
Et pour ce qui est de l’histoire de cette île fascinante, on ne peut mieux faire que le village de Rustico. En son minuscule coeur vous attendent des sites illustrant plus de 250 ans d’histoire acadienne, tout ça à moins de 5 minutes de marche les uns des autres. Il faut le faire!
Mais quel Rustico?

Les lupins
Une petite mise en garde: si vous faites route pour la première fois vers Rustico, vous risquez d’être quelque peu confus. De quel Rustico parle-t-on?
Il y a North Rustico: c’est là que se trouvent nos amis de la Ferme Isle Saint-Jean et leurs délicieux fromages de brebis. Mais ce n’est pas là que je vous emmène, pas plus qu’à Rusticoville ou Anglo-Rustico.
Non, suivez le chemin jusqu’à Rustico…. juste Rustico. Cette question réglée, vous n’aurez plus qu’à profiter du paysage.
Un chemin bucolique à souhait
Les petites routes serpentent entre les champs et selon ce qu’on y a planté les couleurs changent: vert soutenu pour les pommes de terre, vert pâle pour l’avoine, l’orge et le blé jusqu’au moment où la saison est bien avancée. Alors les champs de céréales se mettent à onduler en grandes vagues dorées. Des lignes de feuillus et de sapins délimitent les champs, comme autant de dentelle sur le paysage.
Parfois, au milieu des cultures, apparaît une maison et ses dépendances – une ferme ou, comme les anglais disent ici, un « homestead ».
Au loin, le bleu éclatant du Golfe et le rouge de la terre, parfois l’ondulation d’un cours d’eau. Si c’est le début de la belle saison, les lupins sont partout.
Une pure merveille!
300 ans d’histoire française

Le four à pain de la maison Doucet
N’eût été de la vilaine pandémie, l’Île (faisons court, comme les îliens) s’apprêtait à fêter en grand ses 300 ans d’histoire française. Celle que Cartier décrivit comme « la plus belle terre que l’on puisse voir », fut d’abord occupée par des pêcheurs français. Ce sont eux qui la baptisèrent Île Saint-Jean. Suivirent les Acadiens dès 1750 et surtout après la déportation et la chute de l’Île Royale et de la forteresse de Louisbourg, dont nous vous parlions l’été dernier.
À un moment vous arriverez au croisement de deux routes. D’un côté vous apercevrez le magasin général Gallant – famille du chanteur acadien Lennie Gallant, de l’autre le clocher d’une imposante église. C’est là, à deux pas de l’église que se trouve votre premier rendez-vous avec l’histoire acadienne: la maison Doucet.

La table de la maison Doucet – Crédit photo: la Voix Acadienne
Devant la maison, un four à pain traditionnel. Sur le pas de porte, vous attendent des guides qui vous expliqueront l’histoire de cette humble demeure construite vers 1772 et occupée par Jean Doucet et son épouse Marguerite Gaudet. On pense qu’il s’agit de la plus ancienne maison de toute l’Île.
S’il fait froid ou humide dehors, il y aura « une bonne fouée » dans la cheminée et la table sera sans doute mise.
En sortant de la modeste demeure de bois, vous ne pourrez manquer l’imposant édifice en pierre tout à côté qui illustre le second siècle de l’histoire de Rustico.
La banque des fermiers
L’immeuble construit en grés traditionnel de l’île, est l’oeuvre d’un personnage haut en couleur, l’Abbé Georges-Antoine Belcourt. Arrivé à Rusticoen 1859, il se rend compte que ses ouailles ont besoin d’aide! Et il ne ménage pas sa peine.

Banque des fermiers
Il s’inquiète de l’instruction des ses paroissiens et se rend aussi vite compte que les Acadiens sont esclaves des marchands. (C’est une constante dans l’histoire de notre région.)
En 1861, il fonde la Banque des fermiers , précurseur du mouvement financier coopératif des Caisses populaires en Amérique du Nord. C’est un succès! La banque obtient son accréditation en 1864 et opère pendant près de 30 ans. En 1866, l’édifice actuel est construit comme salle paroissiale et abrite la banque.
L’Abbé Belcourt a des connexions!
Comment ce simple curé de campagne, réussit-il à lancer un vrai programme d’instruction et une banque? Dans le bâtiment, aujourd’hui transformé en musée, on explique les exploits de l’Abbé Belcourt, mais je ne résiste pas au plaisir de vous fournir la version abrégée!
L’Abbé Belcourt entretenait une amitié épistolaire avec l’historien français Rameau de Saint-Père, lui-même passionné par l’histoire acadienne puisqu’il y consacra, en 1859, un ouvrage. Un an plus tard Rameau de Saint-Père effectua même un voyage en Acadie de la Nouvelle-Écosse, du Nouveau-Brunswick et de la Gaspésie, mais ne vint pas à l’Île.
Rameau de Saint-Père était un proche de Napoléon III et de l’Impératrice Eugénie qui ont été touchés par le sort des Acadiens de Rustico. Ils n’ont pas hésité à donner à l’Abbé Belcourt les livres et instruments scientifiques pour son école, ainsi que de quoi payer une partie du salaire du maître.
Merci qui ? Merci Napoléon III

Napoléon III – Crédit photo: La Banque des fermiers
Au musée de la Banque des fermiers, vous découvrirez un bronze de Napoléon III. L’histoire de son arrivée à Rustico est merveilleusement touchante:
En 2004, alors qu’on célébrait les 400 ans de la fondation de l’Acadie, les Amis de la Banque des fermiers eurent l’idée de demander à la France une statue de leur bienfaiteur. Le 3 avril 2004, le buste de Napoléon descendit du navire de la Marine Nationale Jeanne D’Arc, en escale à Halifax, et prit la route de l’Île-du-Prince-Édouard escorté par une douzaine d’officiers. Étaient aussi présents de nombreux dignitaires, dont le Consul de France dans les provinces atlantiques, le Baron Gilbert Ameil, Président des Amis de Napoléon III et Adolphe Leschevin D’Ere, représentant les Amitiés Acadiennes et le Comité France-Canada. Rien de moins!
Église Saint-Augustin
Au sortir de la Banque, passez à l’église.
L’église Saint-Augustin, construite en 1838, et qui a servi de cathédrale pour le diocèse de Charlottetown pendant une vingtaine d’années, est aujourd’hui la plus ancienne église catholique du diocèse qui sert toujours au culte. (Georges Arsenault, historien).
la visite vaut la peine, l’intérieur est lumineux, couleur d’orge et de blé mûrs.
Ici, comme dans la Banque des fermiers, la générosité de Napoléon III est bien présente, puisqu’on lui doit l’orgue et les trois cloches du carillon!
Le gîte et le couvert
Votre visite n’est pas terminée mais, en sortant de l’église, face à vous, se trouve une ravissante maison de « style Second Empire qui a été construite en 1880 comme résidence privée et magasin par l’homme d’affaires acadien Joseph Gallant », explique celui qui sait tout (ou presque!) sur l’histoire acadienne de l’Île, l’ami Georges Arsenault.

L’Auberge Barachois – Crédit photo: Georges Arsenault
Ça tombe bien, cette maison est aujourd’hui un gîte haut de gamme. Pour y avoir habité, je peux vous le certifier, l’Auberge Barachois vaut qu’on y pose son sac.
Ceci fait, reprenons notre visite et entrons dans le 20ème et 21ème siècles!
Juste à côté de l’auberge se trouve le Centre Belcourt (du nom du généreux et inventif abbé), « ancien couvent des religieuses de la congrégation de Notre-Same, érigé en 1932 pour remplacer le couvent original qui datait de 1882 et qui avait été la proie des flammes ». Merci Georges!
Continuez un peu plus loin sur le chemin qui descend vers la mer.
Une école gagnée de haute lutte

École Saint-Augustin – Crédit Photo: Radio-Canada-Acadie
Votre voyage dans l’histoire acadienne de Rustico se conclut dans la modernité devant le Centre scolaire et communautaire Grand Rustico qui comprend l’École Saint-Augustin
Cette école, ouverte en 2011, est une éclatante victoire acadienne sur l’adversité. Elle vient remplacer quelques minuscules classes situées dans le club des Lions juste à côté de la Banque des fermiers, et offre aux enfants de la région « une vraie école » avec toutes les installations modernes.
Comme quoi, en 258 ans d’histoire acadienne, personne n’a jamais baissé les bras. Respect!
À l’eau
Avouez que la visite n’a pas été bien fatiguante! Alors, poursuivezle chemin jusqu’à la mer. Une plage merveilleuse vous attend!
Rustico, Île-du-Prince-Édouard
(Vous utilisez Pinterest? Merci d’épingler)
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Thank you so much for the wonderful article on Rustico and its historic buildings. Rustico is an important historic cultural landscape
which we love and work to preserve and care for so visitors can explore this wonderful historic crossroads. We are eagerly awaiting
Atlantic Canada visitors as well as Prince Edward Islanders to visit this summer. We are open and waiting to greet you.
Come see us in Rustico.
Thank you for your comments. I have stayed in your inn years ago (2002 I believe) and have sent many friends to you over the years. Rustico and the Island hold a very special place in my heart.
Françoise